A guide to Sicily (with or without kids)
When most people think of European summers their minds usually transcend to the whitewashed Greek islands or the colourful towns dotting the Amalfi Coast. But there is so much more to see, and so many places to avoid the Australian accents that swarm the well-trodden European summer path. One of these places is Sicily.
Although part of Italy, the people of Sicily consider themselves different from Italians, identifying themselves as Sicilians. And once I visited I understood why. It feels different there, it is unpolished compared to the mainland, imperfect and rough around the edges, which all adds to its alluring charm. But it also has all of the best Italian features on one little island. Palermo, the capital, boasts beautiful history and architecture just like Rome does. The coastline is rugged with crystal clear waters, just like the Amalfi. The countryside produces some of the countries best wine, similar to Tuscany.
So, here is my guide of where to go, what to do, where to stay and most importantly, what to eat.
Where to go, stay & eat:
Palermo
The capital sits in a natural bowl below mountains by the Tyrrhenian Sea and is home to a stunning historical city centre. Thanks to its location and history its been influenced by African, Arab and European culture. The mayor has actually referred to it as a ‘Middle Eastern’ city in Europe. Its diversity is the reason it’s the perfect city to get lost in. If the beach is what you’re chasing during the middle of those hot days, take a 30-minute drive to Mondello for some sun, sand and icy granita.
Where to stay: Grand Hotel Piazza Borsa is a former bank which has been transformed and restored into a lovely hotel in the heart of Old Town.
Where to eat:
Street food, where you can find it, read more in “what to eat” below
Coffee and sweet treats at Spinnato
Seafood in the heart of the antique district at Trattoria Ai Cascinari
Chianchitelle
This beautiful small country town is one of the hundreds dotted around the island. The reason we fell in love with this place is because of our overnight stay at Al Lago Verde. It happened to coincide with one of their regular “one-kilometre dinners” where they host an 8-course feast with matching wines which all the produced and sourced from within a 1km radius of the property. It was one of the most unforgettable (and delicious) experiences that I have ever had.
Where to stay and eat: Al Lago Verde di Giuseppina D'Andrea includes a guest house and a restaurant. It is worth contacting them ahead of time to see if they have any special events while you’re there.
Taormina
Perhaps the tourist capital of the island, but there is a reason it is so popular - it is stunningly beautiful. The township sits high on the mountain with views sweeping across the ocean below. We stayed at the top of the mountain which was convenient when exploring the bars and restaurants at night time. But, be warned, going up and down the hill during the summer months it is brutal so you might want to opt for staying down by the water is walking up hills or cramming into sweaty buses isn’t your idea of a holiday.
Where to stay:
I haven’t stayed at these hotels but I have stayed at other Belmond hotels and can vouch for their quality.
Belmond Villa Sant Andrea has prime position right on the water on the beach
Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo is perched on top of the mountain with incredible views.
Where to eat:
Afternoon outdoor aperitif in the heart of old town at Daiquiri
The most delicious pizza and pasta feast at Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro
I had one of the best meals of my trips at Osterio Rosso DiVino where the menu changes daily based on what’s fresh.
What to eat:
Street food: while weaving in and out of the streets of the stunning cities, you can snack on some signature seafood along the way. Try the Pane panelle e crocchè (deep fried chickpea squares and potato croquettes in a bread roll) or aranchina (deep riced rice balls filled with different ingredients).
Gelato: Gelato was born in Sicily and is perhaps its most important historic contribution (to food lovers like me anyway). The classic, signature flavour that you must try is pistachio.
Seafood: given Sicily is an island surrounded by seafood filled waters, it should be no surprise they have perfected the art of cooking it. Swordfish is one of the most popular and common fish dishes on the island. I normally don’t love seafood, but Sicilian seafood is a whole different kettle of fish.
Getting there:
Flying: Many airlines fly to the Capital of Palermo and also the other airport in Chania.
Ferry: I recommend going by ferry from Naples, especially if you have a car. You board the boat at night and arrive in the morning. The views of Palermo while the sunrises are incredible. You can go on as a passenger with or without a car.
Getting around: I definitely recommend road tripping around the island. It was so fun driving around without a purpose and coming across little towns that look like they’re part of the Godfather movie set.
Travelling with kids: I didn’t have kids at the time but would recommend it. I felt totally safe there and the diversity of countryside and beach time would be perfect for entraining kids. My only advice would be to either stay by the beach in Taormina or stay in a hotel with a pool if you want to be in the old town. Walking up and down the hill with kids would be tough!
